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February 09, 2005

沖縄旅行記 焼物編

沖縄旅行記その2 焼物編です。
やちむん編といったほうがいいかな?

那覇市内の「壺屋」地区と、読谷(よむたん)村の焼物の里に行ってきました。
あと、今帰仁城へ行く途中で立ち寄った、「もとぶ南蛮窯」さん。

壺屋地区は那覇市内の一角にありました。一方通行の道を中心に、焼物屋さんが並んでいます。一本小路を中に入ると昔の窯跡も残っています。「壺屋焼」について勉強できる、「壺屋焼博物館」もこの地区にあります。お土産用に壺屋焼を買ったりするんだったら、やはりココ、壺屋地区に来るのが一番手っ取り早いと思います。焼物の小道なんかもあって、ちょっとした散策も楽しめます。ただし、クルマで行くのはあまりお勧めしません...。街中なんでパーキングを探して結構時間をとられました。助けられたのは、このサイトのMAP。→http://www.tuboya.com/
壺屋焼の粘土の通販もしています♪ しかし本土まで送るとなると、粘土の価格より送料の方が(笑)
写真は「荒焼」を中心に焼いていた、「南窯跡」です。沖縄の焼物について詳しいことが知りたければ、
http://www.wonder-okinawa.jp/008/index.html 
のサイトがお勧め。リンクを貼っている「八風窯」さんのサイトにも、沖縄焼物旅行記が載ってます。

minamikama

焼物を「お店で買うだけ」でなく、作家さんや工房めぐりをしたいのなら、読谷村の方がお勧めです。壺屋地区は街中になって昔ながらの薪で焚く窯は、今はありません。読谷村では村をあげて「焼物の里」つくりをしていて、大きな共同の登り窯が二つあります。↓の写真は、13室も房がある大きな共同登り窯、「北窯」です。本土では薪には主に赤松を使いますが、沖縄では...? やはり松を使うそう。ただし、琉球松という種類だそうです。

kitanobori

窯の裏手には原土の山とかスイヒ槽なんかもあって、「工房」の雰囲気抜群でした。

nanbu最後に、喫茶店併設の「もとぶ南蛮窯」さん http://www.cosmos.ne.jp/~e-motobu/motobuyaki.htm について。
今帰仁城へ行く途中、道で看板を見かけてふと立ち寄ってみる気になったのですが、大当たり~★ 南国ムードたっぷりの開かれたギャラリーと、併設の喫茶店。ケーキ好きのかわいい猫たちがお出迎えしてくれました。


motobu


「南蛮焼」は釉薬を使わない、焼き締めの焼物です。炎の当り方や灰のかぶり方によっていろいろな窯変が出て、私は好きな焼物です。
この窯元でも、自分の所で粘土作りをしていらっしゃいましたが、読谷村でも見かけた、瓦の上で水分を飛ばす↓の風景、本土ではあまり見かけません(鉢のようなものの中をよく使っています)。「古い瓦がたくさんあるからね~、再利用」とのお話でしたが、これもまた、「やちむんの風景」の一つなのでしょう。

kawara

自分でも陶芸を始めてからから、「作り手さん」との会話が楽しくて、わざわざ工房を尋ねたりするようになりました。この「器」にこめた思い、表現したいと思ったアレコレのこと。ただ「買う」だけでは判らないことがいろいろと伝わってきて、買った「器」も大事に大事に使うようになりました。

あー、ジブンで作った駄作共はそれなりに愛着はありますが、なんかやはりハズカシイので扱いは乱暴です。しかし。下手の厚作りは丈夫だけが取得(?)で、なかなか壊れてくれないのでありました。

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